Visiting El Viejo Almacén is like taking a trip back in time. The historic building where the show takes place is an iconic location at the corner of Balcarce and Independencia in the heart of the San Telmo neighborhood.
The building was constructed in 1769 during the Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata, corresponding to the origins of this wonderful city of Buenos Aires. It originally housed a campaign store, but by 1840 it had been transformed into a surgical hospital, and later, between 1850 and 1870, it housed the National Customs House.
By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, tango was taking shape, and this particular corner began to find its current destiny.
In 1969, Edmundo Leonel Rivero transformed it into a “Temple of Tango,” and since then, El Viejo Almacén has become the epicenter of the most sublime expressions of this urban music.
Many tango greats have graced this sanctuary: Aníbal Troilo, Osvaldo Pugliese, Roberto Goyeneche, among others, spreading their talents, which were applauded by countless personalities, including King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofía of Spain, presidents of various nations, and other luminaries who echoed the fame of El Viejo Almacén beyond our borders.
Upon arriving at the place, it’s worth noting that dinner is served in the building across the street. It is very well-appointed and offers friendly service. The menu is varied, but we chose the Argentine beef empanadas to start, followed by the particular bife de chorizo, which was excellent! And to finish, the “postre vigilante,” also an Argentine tradition that combines cheese and sweet potato paste. After dinner, the staff invited us to cross Balcarce Street to enter the historic building we’ve been talking about. There, you can feel the tango, the history, and the passage of time. Seated at our tables with drinks available, the show was about to begin. The view is great from all corners; it’s not a very large space, but rather cozy and allows you to enjoy the three dancing couples who perform to the rhythm of a tango quartet composed of violin, double bass, and bandoneon, crowned by the piano of maestro Fernando Marzan. The music is fantastic, covering the most popular tangos with some special arrangements by the maestro that stand out. Many costume changes make the evening attractive. The dancers are joined by a female singer who performs some tangos like “Malena,” and a couple that showcases some traditional Argentine skills such as malambo, a drum show, and the indispensable boleadoras. All very well done. As the grand finale, maestro Hugo Marcel makes his appearance to close the evening with the most famous and acclaimed tangos. Among these are Caminito, Volver, Nostalgias, and Por una Cabeza. His wonderful voice elevates the show to another level. Without a doubt, it is one of the most interesting tango shows of the Buenos Aires night.
